Sure, they don’t have super strength, infinite stretch or the ability to burst into flames at any given moment, but the Spiteris are basically The Incredibles when it comes to London’s restaurant scene. You might think that for the children of celebrated restaurateurs Jon Spiteri (The French House, St John, Sessions Arts Club) and Melanie Arnold (Rochelle Canteen), the choice to follow in such footsteps risks a life skulking in their parents’ shadows. Not for brothers Fin and Lorcan, who mastered their craft at Islington’s now-shuttered barge-based restaurant Caravel, and sister Molly, who leads business development for Koya. As culinary dynasties go, their powers are immense.
Grilled bream on a bed of fennel is what happens when pub food is done really, really well
The latest Spiteri venture sees the two generations join forces. The Latimer is intentionally pub-first, the white tablecloths which hint at its gastro prefix only visible past the stools and steel-topped tables that occupy its main floorspace. Big windows flood the high ceilinged room with light, triggering that irresistible urge to snap a couple of piccies before golden hour fades. Come summer, grabbing a table on its terrace will likely take as much dedication as worming through the crowds to Latimer Road station on Carnival weekend.
The Latimer’s menu is best pondered over a Westway cocktail – which tastes like adults-only pink sherbet, because, well, tequila. Masala monkfish with tartare sauce, which features on the bar menu, is the most direct nod to gastropub cooking among the small plates. Still, it has none of the stodge and all of the flavour you want from something deep-fried to snack on while you sip. Confit trout, too, is fresh and light, its silkiness matched by the delicate crunch of green beans.
If you’re starting to see a theme here, that’s because there is one: The Latimer’s standouts are its fish dishes. Grilled bream on a bed of fennel, olives and anchovy is what happens when pub food is done really, really well. Served with a dollop of aioli, it’s both rich and delicate.
My dining companion’s chocolate indifference (I know, I know) sadly isn’t conquered by a dark(ish) mousse, though the peeled blood orange segments which glisten seductively as a garnish are reason enough to order it again. The effortless service, too, guarantees a return visit. The Spiteris set out to build west London’s latest neighbourhood hotspot, and they’ve succeeded.
The vibe Don’t be fooled by the white tablecloths and seamless service, The Latimer is a pub. Just one that’s run by one of London’s most powerful culinary bloodlines.
The food Classy nods to gastropub classics.
The drink Draft beers, and a wine list of millennial must-haves, including orange wines and vino served on tap.
Time Out tip Don’t skip the pickles, especially the butternut squash.
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