A branch of the Bloomsbury deli and café that opened in 2013, this more ambitious venue in Soho is less of a café, more of a restaurant. Amid the plethora of options in Kingly Court, it stands out for having a properly Greek menu and wine list. This is cooking like you'll find in smart resorts or in Athens, for Greeks, not for tourists.
We relished the grilled aubergine, smoky and soft, simply garnished with feta and diced tomato. A salad took horiatiki (Greek 'village salad') as a starting point, but then jazzed it up with pomegranate arils and cherry tomatoes. Gigantes (giant white beans, stewed) were as satisfying as ever, and an octopus stifado was authentically Greek – that is, slow-cooked almost for too long, until meltingly tender.
The wine list is particularly admirable; Greece now has many new-wave producers making great wines, but these aren't easy to find in London. It's a pity then that on our visit, we found the staff training left much room for improvement; one glass of wine was badly corked, and our server appeared uncomprehending as we explained the problem.