Here’s how to do The Petersham. Go when the forecast is for sun and book an early table and ask to be moved outside (it’s first come, first served) because while the alfresco tables of this central London offshoot don’t have quite the magic of the bucolic garden centre original, we’re still talking about a leafy landscaped courtyard tucked away from Theatreland’s drama.
Bonus tip: Order the chocolate mousse. It has a deep, silky intensity, flattered by a sprinkle of salt, plus small shards of sweet, soapy honeycomb and a firm scoop of olive oil ice cream. Yep, it’s as dreamy as it sounds.