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A canal-side day-to-night brasserie in Maida Vale.
If London’s canals did Ibiza-style alfresco dining, The Waterway would be right in there. With plush white sofas, arching canopies and charming views of brightly coloured canal boats puffing past, this idyll makes river-living chic.It’s gastropub-style food, and whilst the inside feels a bit like a steak house with mirrored walls and leather seating, outside is more exclusive.
Arancini set the tone with a fancy truffle mayonnaise, although they were aran-teeny. Hungry customers are well served with 28-day dry aged steaks and burgers off the grill, but the menu has a something-for-everyone approach with salads, fish and lighter mains too. Braised whole lemon sole was well-cooked and atlantic prawn and crayfish caesar salad was crisp with plump shellfish – not bad, but not mind-blowing either. Dauphinoise potatoes appeared to be cooked in butter rather than cream, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
The crème brûlée hid a satisfying layer of tart victoria plums, but the apple tart pastry was a little flat and lacklustre. Service was friendly and they let customers linger over their lunch in the sunshine. The food here isn’t going to blow you away, but still, the location just might
54 Formosa St
|Transport:||Tube: Warwick Avenue|
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: £105.|
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