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Thunderbird Fried Chicken (CLOSED)

Restaurants, American Brixton
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Time Out says

Please note, Thunderbird Fried Chicken's Brixton branch has now closed. Its other joints in Charing Cross, Canary Wharf and The O2 are still open. Time Out Food editors, FEBRUARY 2020. 

A clattery, two-floor spot in Brixton Market, Thunderbird may look like your garden-variety chicken joint, but its owners have a more polished backstory than you might think. The mothercluckers behind this smashing spot (a permanent version of the Thunderbird stalls at street-food establishments Dinerama and Giant Robot) won the ‘Best Buffalo Wings’ prize at Wingfest in 2015 and as such, they have a stellar reputation for serving some of the best bird in town.

Expectations were high, but Thunderbird delivered. A tray of wings with crisp, papery skin came with a sticky barbecue sauce that beautifully melded sweet, sour and smoke. Then a basic Thunderbun chicken burger saw more of that finely seasoned, crisply coated bird as well as iceberg, pickles and a delicious mayo-style sauce. Better still? The Meltdown burger. Its light scattering of jalapeños and charred pepper aioli were good, but the inclusion of melty, miso-infused synthetic cheese was genius: a stupidly delicious umami blanket that’s a prime example of Thunderbird’s ability to put subtle, inventive twists on relatively simple dude-food staples.The only misstep to note was the wings slathered in salted caramel sauce: undersalted, truly cloying and orange-laced (why?!).

Service was perfectly affable (though this is an order-at-the-counter place, so the exchanges were mainly functional) and the drinks list is sparse; just soft drinks and a few Brixton and Brooklyn craft beers. But this minimalist approach felt well curated rather than lazy. Overall, Thunderbird is a super spot. Make the trip to Brixton for that miso cheese alone.

Details

Address: 10 Market Row
London
SW9 8LB
Transport: Tube: Brixton
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £50.
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