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The dark-wood panelled interior probably seemed retro when Toff’s was established back in 1968. This Muswell Hill stalwart is a true one-off; the corporate slickness comes from being a long-established family business that knows what it’s doing and knows that people like it. Little changes here, but we were pleased to note that, unlike many London chippies, the business has joined the Marine Stewardship Council and sources fish from sustainable stocks.
Fish is cooked to order and batter is the norm; egg and matzo, or grilling, bring a surcharge. Starters include fish or vegetable soup, deep-fried camembert, fish cakes and avocado vinaigrette. Our main-course grilled king prawns with herby butter dressing were lovely, but seemed pricey at £15.95 for a modest portion. No complaints about the gigantean battered haddock, however, which arched across the plate as though in yoga posture. Fat chips were fabulous.
To drink, there are a dozen wines, three bottled beers and a range of spirits. In the unlikely event you have room, finish with Marine Ices ice-cream or one of the school-days puddings.
38 Muswell Hill Broadway
|Transport:||Tube: Highgate tube then bus 43, 134|
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