Tomoe

Due to redevelopment on Marylebone Lane, Tomoe has moved to Putney, taking over the site from the venerable chef of Chosan (who has now retired). Tomoe’s sushi chef/proprietor and much of his team may be the same, but the decor and clientele here are markedly different. Instead of salarymen enjoying a lively after-work drink, the big-windowed and minimally adorned dining room is populated by couples quietly chatting as they tuck in.

The menu is also pared down, though happily of the same quality as before, spanning raw, grilled, deep-fried and simmered dishes. You’re sure to find something you like. Scallop sashimi, served in the shell and garnished with a little wakame, was sweet-fleshed and sparklingly fresh. Salt and yuzu grilled chicken had been perfectly cooked, with crisp skin and tender meat – the hint of citrus from the yuzu adding a satisfying tang. A spider roll filled with deep-fried soft-shell crab, avocado and a scattering of tobiko (flying fish roe) was also well executed.

Putney may have lost one well-loved Japanese resident, but it has gained another with a laid-back atmosphere and extremely friendly staff.