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Following on from their success in Soho and Haggerston, the team behind Tonkotsu have now opened a concession in the Selfridges food hall. More of a counter than a restaurant, it has just a handful of tall stools to sit on.
The menu is also minimal: two kinds of ramen, classic tonkotsu and a spicy chicken special that’s only available here. The noodles and meats are prepared at the Haggerston branch, so this is essentially a reheat job and it does show a little in the dishes. Side dishes were also basic, such as steamed gyoza dumplings and sprouting broccoli with Japanese mayo. The Japanese beers were a highlight, however – there’s a lot more than just Kirin to sample here.