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While evenings are still busy-to-frantic in this two-floored contemporary trattoria, lunchtime finds Trullo calm and the cooking relaxed and assured. The pappardelle with beef shin ragu and pici cacio e pepe are the stuff of legends and have been a staple since Trullo’s early days and remains a silky, substantial delight. The pasta might get all the love, but don’t miss the giant Black Hampshire pork chop with borlotti beans and salsa verde. Wash it all down with an accessible and mighty Italian wine list.