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Tulse Hill Hotel

Restaurants, Contemporary European Tulse Hill
Tulse Hill Hotel
Tulse Hill Hotel
Tulse Hill Hotel
Tulse Hill Hotel
Tulse Hill Hotel
Tulse Hill Hotel
Tulse Hill Hotel

Time Out says

A gastropub with rooms serving food that surpasses the usual culinary expectations of posh pub dining

At the start of 2014, the postcode for Tulse Hill – SE24 – achieved the ignoble distinction of being the most burgled in London. This came as a shock to residents, as the area is considered ‘on the up’. Some analysts argued that that might be precisely the problem: new wealth, and the gentrification that comes with it, can attract the light-fingered.

If you wanted a poster child for the gentrification of Tulse Hill, this new restaurant and boutique hotel (9 plushed-up rooms upstairs) would be it. Ostensibly the restaurant is just another ‘dining room at the back of a pub’, leading straight on from the main bar and sharing its buzz and handsome yet laidback decor (heritage paints, bare tables, oversized chandeliers). But eating and drinking here is a fair whack above the usual gastropub.

The menu is Brit-meets-the-Med (in particular, southern Spain and north Africa), with the small plates the most interesting: one stand-out was a crisp-edged piece of mutton over a light, creamy houmous and excellent own-made dukka (mixing toasted cumin, coriander and sesame seeds with crushed toasted hazelnuts). Also good was a three-ways ‘cauliflower cheese’ – cheesy croquetas, charred slices, creamy, delicate sauce – even if the sweet-smoky chipotle jam was overkill. And deliciously salty halloumi paired well with whole roast okra and curry leaves.

Desserts were equally memorable: our warm honey cake, with crushed pistachios, a smear of lavender cream and milk ice cream, was a delight. In between, main courses, such as the ‘sirloin, chop, marrow, bones and oxtail pie’ are built for two-to-three, or there are more standard, ‘safe’ options, such as lamb chop and mint sauce or pork chop and quince. We chose instead the nicely charred roast quail with a rich mayo laced with n’duja, the soft, spicy Calabrian sausage which is extremely fashionable at the moment.

The service is warm yet polished, while the wine list starts under £20 a bottle and goes even lower for wines ‘on tap’ by the glass or 500ml carafe. Like the rest of the offer here, it’s something of a steal. Whoops, sorry Tulse Hill!



Address: 150 Norwood Rd
SE24 9AY
Transport: Tulse Hill rail
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