Twist

First opened in 2014, the food at this Marylebone favourite is tapas with – you guessed it – a twist. In practice, what this means is that it’s creative modern tapas: modish, but not outlandish. More importantly, it’s outstanding. From Sicilian red prawns served like a sashimi salad (cold, with thick slices of Japanese scallops, slivers of cucumber and a sharp dressing) to crunchy, warmly spiced ’nduja croquettes or fatty-edged lamb chops with a burnt aubergine purée, this just happens to be some of the best tapas in town. Even the ‘Josperised’ (deliberately burnt) hispi cabbage came ‘spritzed’ at the table with a chilli and garlic oil.

Better yet, though dishes can occasionally veer towards the fancy, the place itself is ultra-casual and buzzy, with a look that’s rustic chic: worn wooden floors, unpainted plaster walls, copper-pipe wine racks. Not to mention warm, low lighting (thanks to bare filament bulbs, obvs). It’s gloriously atmospheric.

It’s a pity, then, that on the night of our visit, service wasn’t quite as warm as the setting. Staff were a tad brusque, and the wait between plates was like hanging on for the right Overground train. But do go (with a thick skin and plenty of time), as the food and vibe at this tucked-away gem are absolutely worth it.