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Strange to find an Italian villa plonked in the middle of Chiswick High Road, but that’s exactly what Villa di Geggiano is. A wide, imposing building with a gated terrace separating the grand frontage from the pavement and a gentleman waiting to receive you and lead you to the front door. As you walk in, there’s an immediate whiff of Tuscany.
Like the staff, who’ll take your coat, sit you down, go over any allergies and have a drink in your hand within the first few minutes, the food is exceptional. Wobbly, fresh burrata came with a vibrant pesto and semi-dried tomatoes. Next up was a plate of on-trend pici cacio e pepe, the thick stringy pasta smothered in a pecorino cheese sauce with plenty of black pepper. From the grill, a chunk of flaky cod turned up on a slightly over-salted cod and potato rosti (because there has to be a fault somewhere, right?) but a pile of lamb cutlets were melt-in-the-mouth perfection. This really is cooking of the highest order. Our chatty neighbours left us with half a bottle of chianti riserva (£75) from the establishment’s own estate but our choice of the Bandinello (£26) turned out to be a better option – fruity with a light acidity that delightfully cleansed the palate throughout the evening. Prices make this more of a place for special occasions – but for Chiswick locals, this place really is la dolce vita.