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Set within a stone’s throw of many kosher bakeries, delis and cafés, this takeaway and restaurant is aiming at two distinct types of clientele: those who enjoy traditional fish and chips, and more adventurous diners who order from the Thai menu. The walls are adorned with stylish old photos of Billingsgate fish market. Tables (crowded later in the evening) are dark and serviceable.
Cod and haddock can be fried in batter or tastier matzo meal (which adds crispness) and come with good chunky chips and mushy peas. Starters of vegetable spring rolls or soup shouldn’t fill you up too much for the large main-course portions. If you want to push the boat out, order a whole grilled dover sole (£30) or halibut (£20); takeaway prices are more modest. For vegetarians there are pasta options and salads, though most of the Thai or spiced dishes feature cod with appealing looking noodles and sauces.
From the small choice of desserts, profiteroles had a good custardy filling but an overly sweet milk-chocolate topping – a shame, as this is a dairy venue that could make a feature of creamy puds. Service is pleasant and the owners are attentive and charming.
10-12 Bell Lane
|Transport:||Tube: Hendon Central|
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