Wild Game Co (CLOSED)
Time Out says
Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.
Please note, Wild Game Co has now closed. Time Out Food editors, MARCH 2020.
This is another long-term pop-up, in Fitzrovia, from Scottish game specialists the Wild Game Co. The restaurant has hard benches, shared tables, a chill counter and a blackboard menu like a hymn board. It’s about as sparse as a John Knox sermon. True to the name, they serve venison from their own estate in Sutherland, at the far north of the Scottish mainland.
The menu is a short one: simple platters of venison steak with chips (£12.50), venison burgers (from £6), a squash-based salad (with optional venison steak or venison carpaccio) and even stovies (£3.50). Scottish children are raised on stovies as they’re cheap, and sold from chip vans and caffs across the land. Here, this stew of mashed-up new potatoes is cooked up with onion, seasoned with pepper, and – in this case – mixed with venison mince to add flavour.
Venison steak, the fanciest and priciest dish, was very well executed. Tender in the centre, not too gamey-tasting, nicely carved and served with crisp beef-dripping chips and hollandaise sauce on a wooden board as sturdy as a drawbridge.
Despite the presence of the token salads, vegetarians are definitely better off elsewhere. The Wild Game Co may be more chip van than ‘Wicker Man’, but authentically Scots nonetheless.