Wolf

This Stoke Newington newcomer offers seasonal Italian food in stylish surroundings. The decor is inviting, all mid-century furniture and olive-green panelling, like a classy mid-’60s airport lounge. The drinks are fantastic too: a sweet orange Aperol Spritz was dizzyingly delicious. The meal started well, with creamy burrata lightly flavoured with anchovy, and a warm pear and celeriac salad dripping with honey. But mains were a disappointment. A fillet of lamb neck with cannellini bean puree was beautifully tender, but for some reason it was slathered in a brown, salty gravy that tasted worryingly like Heinz oxtail soup. The cod had the opposite problem: though well cooked, both the fish and the celeriac puree beneath were so subtle as to be almost flavourless.

Desserts were good. A light panna cotta came with peanut brittle and prunes, while an unsweetened affogato with a scoop of salted caramel ice cream was a bracing slap in the chops. But by this point the staff’s inexperience was starting to show – a major interruption to our meal wasn’t apologised for, let alone compensated. Still, good looks and dynamite cocktails are not to be sniffed at: Wolf would make a good little spot for aperitivo hour.