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The espresso here is very Parisian – and that is not necessarily meant as a compliment. Perfectly good of its type, but nothing to write home about. The food is also very Parisian, and this is definitely meant as a compliment. Yvon Coignard has a five-star CV, and he knows his craft well. A small oval of the Languedoc bread fougasse had a topping of meltingly sweet caramelised onions and salty lardons; wonderful. But it’s the display of jewel-like patisserie that will really make you think you're in St Germain rather than Ealing. Divided around equally between chocolate and fruit, they are a pleasure to look at. And, based on the evidence of a miniature tarte tatin, a pleasure to eat. Ealingites are lucky. We hope they know it.