Please note, this review refers to a former iteration of Bibendum. It has now reopened as Claude Bosi at Bibendum. Time Out Food and Drink editors, February 2017.
Set on the first floor of the iconic Michelin Building, this is one of the loveliest restaurant rooms in London – light and airy, not too big, with lots of stained glass – and attracts a mixed bag of diners. Head chef Matthew Harris’s menu consists of classics, sometimes with a twist (a special of monkfish wrapped in prosciutto, with artichoke and chanterelles, sometimes without (fillet steak au poivre). The best dishes in a recent summer meal were starters; both charentais melon ‘gazpacho’ with brown shrimps and salsa, and spinach mousse with poached duck egg and anchovy hollandaise packed a flavoursome punch. Desserts are also worth ordering; the standout being a zingy peach bellini granita. Mains (deep-fried haddock and chips with tartare sauce, and roast quail with girolles) were good but not exceptional. And at these prices – the quail cost £25, and needed a side dish (courgette provençal, another £4) – nice enough doesn’t quite cut it. Service, while pleasantly unstuffy, was a little over-eager; water and wine constantly topped up, bread plates and pudding dishes whisked away before we’d quite finished. On the plus side, bread, olives and petits fours were generously distributed. The wine list is a serious prospect, but contains some affordable bottles. The Oyster Bar on the ground floor is a charming spot in its own right.
|Cross street:||81 Fulham Road|
|Opening hours:||Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri; 12.30-3pm Sat, Sun. Dinner served 7-11pm Mon-Sat; 7-10.30pm Sun|
|Transport:||Tube: South Kensington tube|
|Price:||Main courses £18-£32. Set lunch £26.50 2 courses, £30 3 courses|
|Do you own this business?|