An Insider’s Guide to Malta: 6 of the best excursions to explore

When I want the coastline to myself, I head to Malta’s south-east tip. The footpaths take you past craggy bays where the water is so clear you can count the fish from the shore. There’s an old British fort and a lighthouse out here too. Families often head for Kalanka Bay, where the water is usually calmer. If you fancy diving, arrange a guided shore dive – there’s tons to explore beneath the surface.

Time Out tip: Pack a ftira biż-żejt (Maltese bread stuffed with tuna, tomatoes and capers) as there’s few cafes or shops out this way (certainly part of its quiet charm!). Valletta’s about 20 minutes away by car.

Never held a paddle? Neither had half my group when I went kayaking out from Għadira. Found in Mellieħa Bay it has Malta’s longest sandy beach, and the shallow, sheltered water is a good place to get your bearings. It didn't take us long to find our stride. Soon we were paddling past rocky headlands and peering into little sea caves.

Time Out tip: Pop your phone in a dry bag. Trust me, you’ll want to safely get photos while you're out there.

These temples were built around 3600 BC. Older than Stonehenge, and older than the pyramids. I still find it hard to get my head around that when I’m standing next to them. Massive white canopies now protect the stone from the weather, so you’re not going to be able to get that classic ruin shot – but they’re still a truly incredible sight to behold. A gentle downhill path runs between Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra, and you can see the little islet of Filfla just offshore.

Time Out tip: At the equinoxes, the sunrise shines straight through Mnajdra’s doorway. Otherwise, go late afternoon, when the low light picks out every pit and groove in the stone. Buses from Valletta stop at the entrance.

At around 250m above the sea, this is Malta’s highest point, with terraced fields stepping down towards the water and not much else between you and the horizon. A flat footpath runs well back from the edge. It’s an easy walk, even after a long lunch.

Time Out tip: The socials-worthy shot you miss at Ħaġar Qim is easily made up for by the one you’ll capture here. Frame the 17th-century chapel of St Mary Magdalene against the sea from the path. The cliffs face west, so go around sunset. Buses run from Rabat.

Valletta might hog the limelight, but Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua were home to the Knights of St John first. Get lost (you will) in alleys barely wider than your arms, with washing lines strung from bright balconies overhead. Explore Fort St Angelo, then head to the Gardjola Gardens and its watchtower, carved with an eye and an ear.

Time Out tip: Arrive by sea. Cross the Grand Harbour from Valletta on a dgħajsa, Malta’s colourful wooden water taxi, and watch the bastions rise up around you as you glide in.

I’ve saved one of my favourite spots for last. Wied il-Għasri, on Gozo’s north coast, is a gorge so narrow you could almost miss it from the road. Stone steps zigzag down between sheer rock walls, and then, suddenly, there’s a tiny pebble inlet with water clear enough to snorkel in on a calm day. Getting back up is another story. Wear sturdy shoes.

Time Out tip: It’s a 20-minute drive from the Mġarr ferry, and the coast road takes you past the Xwejni salt pans. Gozitan families have harvested sea salt here for generations. Grab a bag – there’s room in that 22kg allowance.

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