The jewel in BBC3’s comedy crown begins its lap of honour with a final series set on a single day. The appalling Laura and the pathetic Paul are tying the knot, Becky is the main bridesmaid, Steve is the best man and chaos is sure to ensue.
We’d wondered if this scenario might be a touch too busy for a show that has often specialised in doing nothing much, very slowly and very charmingly for whole episodes at a time. But on the evidence of this opener, it should work fine: Steve and Becky (further showcasing the remarkable chemistry of Russell Tovey and Sarah Solemani) are the still point around which a series of bizarre, hideous and unbelievable events seems likely to swirl – and we’re sure they’ll take it in their collective stride.
A word too for Kerry Howard, whose Laura is surely one of the most unbearable creations in TV history – she manages to infuse Laura’s every moment of screentime with a uniquely noxious mixture of selfishness, neediness and spite. We can only hope her career survives the association…
A short walk from Monument station is this trendy basement hangout: a low-lit, vaguely opulent space filled with the steady thump of house music. Home to City workers during the week, and Essex out-of-towners at the weekend. The menu pairs European and East Asian flavours with the usual mixed successes of fusion cuisine. The flavours in chorizo and prawn sui mai were too overpowering for dumplings; duck confit didn’t quite knit with its orange and beetroot salad. Kangaroo wellington had to be tried for obvious reasons – but while the pastry was crisp and on-point, marsupial meat turns out to be far too chewy a choice for such a pristine dish. If the deliciously fatty, fiery beef cheek rendang is anything to go by, it’s the curries that you should gravitate towards. They do some nifty speciality cocktails too: a negroni-ish Kitsune was fantastically bitter. It makes for a versatile spot too, if mainly for local professionals. You can eat a decent after-work meal here, or pick at a few small plates at lunchtime if you don’t want to fall into a food coma back at the office. Oh, and take note of the whisky bar: it’s not a bad first-date spot.