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Why all this Daniel Defoe nonsense? Because the revelations here are not the dirty secrets of the food industry, but that the industry itself is a self-constructing giant, beneath whose feet we could all easily be crushed. We knew this, of course, but it needs the human scale (and is there anyone more humanly scaled than Gregg Wallace?) to throw it into relief. ‘I’ve been in the food industry…’ Yes, yes: you said.