Table at Third & Fairfax is a weekly dining column in 2023 where Food and Drink editor Patricia Kelly Yeo will eat her way through the Original Farmers Market. Each column will drop on Thursday for a week-by-week recap of her journey through the classic L.A. tourist attraction. Last week, Kelly (re)visited Bob’s Coffee and Doughnuts.
As usual, the sun is unrelenting on my weekly visit to the Original Farmers Market. Even in December, it’s 81 degrees in central L.A., limiting my patience as I navigate the parking lot and make my way past the fruit and vegetable stands in search of something to eat. The market has put up its Christmas tree and decorated the clock tower with enormous garlands, though, which puts me in a slightly better mood. On my way to visit Michelina, I decide to order a small chocolate peppermint milkshake ($8) from Local Ice, which mixes a chocolate sauce-drizzled cup with a vanilla peppermint and chocolate ice cream shake, then tops the whole thing off with whipped cream and crushed peppermint candies.
It’s five days into December, and the only holiday drinks I’ve had thus far have contained alcohol—my own homemade eggnog, plus some warm cider-inspired cocktail from newly opened speakeasy Cold Shoulder. The blessedly non-alcoholic shake offers just the right amount of minty flavor, and the peppermint candy is crushed finely enough that it dissolves in my mouth rather than sticking to my teeth. I’m tempted to finish the whole thing on the spot, but I know I need to try another brunch item at Michelina, so I hold off and walk over to the French bakery and brunch spot.
While there, I take a seat at the counter and order the quinoa salad ($19), which combines goat cheese, cucumbers and red quinoa into a tartare-like shape and tops the whole thing with sprouts and a few cherry tomato slices. The salad also comes with two pieces of bread. It’s not offensive, but it’s less of a salad and more of a lightly cheesy grain bowl of sorts. In general, I’m always excited to eat any kind of salad on the job: It’s not something that happens very often, and my body is screaming for actual nutrition—fiber! vitamins! minerals!—after nonstop eating out to narrow down the list for Time Out’s best new restaurants of 2023. The amount of sprouts are somewhat excessive, but the slightly funky goat cheese binds the whole thing together.
For a brunchlike meal, I would recommend Michelina, even if the food it churns out isn’t exactly great. The other lighter, healthier options at the market are the Salad Bar and Market Chicken, though they don’t offer counter seating, which some people seem to enjoy. If you’re shopping nearby at the Grove or find yourself running errands in the area, I also highly recommend trying the seasonal shake at Local Ice—it’s the perfect thing for a warm December day, as it so often is in L.A.
Meals from Table at Third & Fairfax fall into three categories: Skip It, Worth Trying and Must Have.
Vendor: Michelina
Order: Quinoa salad
Verdict: Worth Trying. In addition to okay pastries, there are omelettes, tartines, sandwiches and salads here—making it a great place for a light lunch or brunch.
Vendor: Local Ice
Order: Chocolate peppermint shake
Verdict: Must Have. While I haven’t loved everything I’ve tried at Local Ice, this seasonal shake excels at distilling holiday flavors into one delightful liquid dessert.