Angelini Osteria

For over two decades, Angelini Osteria has been a go-to spot for countless Angelenos for a simply prepared Italian meal. Every night, the no-frills space packs in diners devoted to the soulful, homestyle cooking of Emilia-Romagna–born chef Gino Angelini. Praises abound for branzino that’s salt-crusted and roasted whole and weekly specials like Saturday-only porchetta stuffed with garlic and herbs and finished in the wood-burning oven. Personally, I’ve found the cooking here to be a little inconsistent; on my most recent visit, the salad and tagliolini limone I ordered were slightly oversalted, though the salt-crusted branzino was cooked perfectly. In spite of the occasional off night, tons of Angelenos are still head over heels for Angelini Osteria—and for a charming, homestyle Italian meal in Central L.A., I can’t say I disagree. A handful of the pasta items even have devoted cult followings, including the signature lasagna verde “Nonna Elvira,” which pays tribute to the Old World with beef and veal ragú and handmade pasta layers topped with wilted spinach.