Chez Jay

Chez Jay is something different to everyone: an institution, a dive, a time warp, a wormhole to a totally bizarre experience. To me, it’s all of the above, with the red-and-white checkered tablecloths, taxidermied fish mounted on the wall and bit-of-everything clientele. It’s the diviest dive, but comfortable, and just as ready to serve you a heavy pour of well rum as it is some steamed clams or steak at cutthroat prices. Since the pandemic, the restaurant also operates its breezier outdoor counterpart, the Backyard, which closes earlier, offers weekend brunch and serves margaritas. The indoor cocktail menu includes all the classics, plus the mezcal-based Chevy to the Levy, which also involves amaro, fresh pineapple and a splash of citrus. If you’re into Santa Monica history, order the swordfish “roti” au poivre, which uses a recipe developed by local Josiah Citrin, the chef behind nearby two Michelin star Mélisse.