Silver Lake’s new modern Jewish deli looks as though it were dropped into its strip-mall surroundings by way of a Brooklyn street corner. Inside, it’s just as disarmingly charming, with a vintage-inspired mishmash of patterned wallpapers, dark wood and a number of rejuvenated yet familiar favorites. It’s in Freedman’s deviations from the norm where this spot really shines (see: fried whitefish “cigars” in honey vinegar; guava cheesecake; and marrow-topped brisket), and their few by-the-book classics, such as matzo ball soup, could stand to benefit from that creativity without straying too far from the traditional recipes.
