Il Pastaio

The first time I visited Il Pastaio, I was prepared to hate everything about it. But l the efficient, thick-accented waiters and reasonable prices—yes, even in Beverly Hills—wore me down, and now I love it. The cooking here is simple but high-quality, with plenty of options for large groups and those with dietary restrictions. During my visit, I ordered the paccheri “alla Justin Bieber,” which turned out to be a subtle pink vodka sauce and the timballo di zucchine, a light vegetarian dish featured in Stanley Tucci’s cult classic Big Night. The place bustles with locals of all ages, including families and couples on dates, and is open all day (and until midnight on weekends), so you can grab a relaxed midafternoon meal if the occasion calls for it. Still, if you’re coming on a weekend, I’d book a reservation or be prepared to wait—this well-run machine fills up fast and is pretty much busy at all hours.