Irv's Burgers

Irv's Burgers has been through a lot. The roadside Santa Monica Boulevard stand, which first opened in 1946 and was relocated in 2014, was thought to be closed for good in 2018. But Sonia Hong, who's operated the shop since 2000, wasn't ready to give up the fight. With the help of new business partner Lawrence Longo and Oui Melrose chef Armen Piskoulian, Irv's Burgers made a miraculous comeback in 2022. Since then, Longo has expanded the business to another location on La Brea, plus further-flung outposts in Malibu and Torrance. Most people order the cheeseburger inspired by The Menu (2022), but I’m still loyal to Irv’s Original Roadside, which consists of two pressed-to-order patties, American cheese, housemade sauce, iceberg lettuce, tomato, raw onion and pickles on a brioche bun. The no-frills burgers here still deliver, especially with a side of fries and a milkshake or float. If you don’t like lettuce or tomato, the Best Burger on “The Menu” nixes these vegetable add-ins, swaps raw onions for grilled and utilizes a sesame bun for yet another leanly built L.A. cheeseburger. Can’t decide? You can also customize with the Just For You, the standard version of which comes simply dressed with pickles and housemade sauce on a sesame bun.