Men & Beasts

This (mostly) plant-based Chinese restaurant in Echo Park serves modern takes on dim sum and traditional tea ceremony in the old Cosa Buona space. In lieu of pizza and mozzarella sticks, married co-owners Alex Falco and Minty Zhu have distilled essential Chinese flavors into one neat, plant-based package right in the heart of Echo Park. While I’ve heard a few reports from trusted sources of inconsistent cooking and service, the valiant attempt to veganize dim sum essentials like char siu bao—listed on the menu as “monkey buns”—and other staple dishes translate into a slightly quirky Chinese eatery and a veritable dining destination for plant-based diners. The zhajiangmian made with seitan offers all the flavors of the northern Chinese classic, minus the meat, though some might turn up their noses at the thick udon-like noodles (the traditional version normally uses a far thinner variety). A weekend brunch menu (11am–4pm) debuting August 2 includes optional egg add-ons to a “Binglish” muffin and an avocado bao, plus plant-based versions of soufflé pancakes and beignets.