Morihiro

Newly relocated to Victor Heights (the sliver of a neighborhood between Chinatown and Echo Park), Morihiro Onodera’s eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant is a gourmand’s delight. Now, in addition to the chef’s signature omakase ($400), the restaurant offers standout sushi rolls and nigiri made with the same specialized rice, milled daily and on-site, plus aged red vinegar and housemade ceramics. I recommend ordering the chef’s precise rendition of a California roll, plus nigiri by the piece and thoughtfully executed hot items. The kitchen impresses even with standard dishes, from the jalapeño-tinged spicy edamame to the cherrywood-smoked jidori chicken, which puts most other yakitori dishes I’ve had in L.A. to shame. The salmon skin salad, in particular, offers lush farmers’ market produce, perfectly crisped fish and a light, flavorful citrus dressing. Of course, the chef’s magnum opus is still the omakase, which features a mix of kaiseki-style appetizers and a diverse array of fish, both dry-aged and fresh—and if money is no object, I recommend springing for it. What thrills me more as a lifelong sushi lover, however, is the more accessibly priced à la carte menu; starting around $100 to $150 per person (post tax and tip), you can experience some of the city’s best sushi, plus flawless service and excellent desserts to cap off your evening.