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Restaurants, Japanese Palms
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen SekizawaAustralian wagyu on houba (magnolia leaf) with red miso sauce at n/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen SekizawaAutumn mushrooms with Alaskan halibut at n/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen SekizawaCauliflower tofu with Santa Barbera uni and uni butter at ikuran/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen SekizawaLobster shinjo with Momotaro tomato dashi broth and fennel at n/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen SekizawaModern tsukuri of hirame with spring garnish and kimchi yuzu air at n/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen SekizawaModern tsukuri of New Zealand King Salmon with avacao purée, soy reduction and marinated konbu at n/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen SekizawaNasu with foie gras and miso balsamic sauce at n/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen SekizawaTakosu with Japanese octopus and cucumber salad, cocumber air, sesame aioli and sanbaizu at n/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen SekizawaChef Niki Nakayama at n/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen Sekizawan/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen Sekizawan/naka
 (Photograph: Zen Sekizawa)
Photograph: Zen Sekizawan/naka

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

You could say that the Netflix documentary Chef's Table helped shine a spotlight on n/naka, but the Palms restaurant was already on the map, front and center. Chef/owner Niki Nakayama is a former protégé of the legendary Morihiro Onodera (once the chef/owner of Mori Sushi), though Nakayama focuses her talent on kaiseki, a classical style of Japanese cooking that dictates a specific progression of textures, temperatures, tastes and seasonal ingredients. À la carte is not an option: n/naka offers either a 13-course modern menu ($185) or a 13-course vegetarian menu ($160), and both can be paired with wine for $85. The menus change daily and seasonally, but there is always something to delight in: a glass filled with sea urchin and lobster in a bath of chilled dashi, maybe, or a seared diver-harvested scallop cuddled next to a warm okra pod. It can take two or three hours to get through a meal here, but it's well worth it. Nakayama is one of LA's best culinary talents, and scoring a meal at her restaurant is money well spent.

By: Brad A. Johnson



Address: 3455 Overland Ave
Los Angeles
Opening hours: Seating: Tue-Fri 6pm, 6:30pm, 8:45pm, 9:15pm; Sat 5:30pm, 6pm, 6:30pm, 8:45pm, 9:15pm
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