Seogwan by Yellow Cow

This Korean barbecue restaurant in the former Magal space specializes in Pyongyang-style naengmyeon, or cold buckwheat noodles. Seogwan, which is run by the same group as Yellow Cow Korean BBQ in Gardena, brings something unique and refined to Koreatown’s oversubscribed Korean barbecue scene. The restaurant offers exemplary banchan and high-quality meats alongside four types of cold noodles, including a slightly bland rendition originating in Pyongyang. The North Korean capital is actually the birthplace of naengmyeon—and while the near-flavorless broth wasn’t to my liking, the addition of sweet housemade vinegar helped make it more palatable. The mild noodle dish also serves as a surprisingly refreshing complement to Seogwan’s generous meat combos. The Set C ($200) includes several kinds of beef, banchan and your choice of family-style hot pot and easily feeds four people. Other distinctive menu items include mung bean pajeon and bracken fern sourced from Jeju Island’s famous haenyeo divers, set Seogwan apart. The restaurant could easily go head-to-head with other KBBQ heavyweights in L.A., and it’s a worthy newcomer for the next time you’re craving freshly grilled meats.