Vicky's All Day

Stop into this all-day restaurant on a weekend afternoon, and you'll quickly understand the massive appeal of Danny Elmaleh's newest project backed by CIM, the powerful real estate company that's slowly transforming (in other words, gentrifying) West Adams into a playground for affluent creatives, professionals and everyone in between. The checkered floor and retro light fixtures harken back to "simpler" times, and the crowd-pleasing daytime fare is mostly as delicious as it is beautifully plated. Elmaleh brings touches of globally inspired flair to dishes like an enormous Israeli sabich and flavorful chicken lettuce wraps, though most items pack in so much flavor the overall effect is more cloying and over-the-top than anything else. For a lazy brunch with a touch of class, or a casual evening meal in West Adams, Vicky's eerily fits the bill so well it's almost like the entire concept was devised from means-tested market research—and not necessarily in a good way.

In terms of overall vibe, the sleekly designed restaurant lacks the lived-in, cozy feel of longtime diners and the local gems within L.A's various neighborhoods. While it might be hard for younger Angelenos and recent transplants to imagine the city without a glut of carefully calibrated, investor-backed dining concepts, places like Vicky's are working very, very hard to make sure you forget there's a difference between the two.