Yhing Yhang BBQ

This Thai-style grilled chicken joint is one of four independent concepts inside Maydan Market, a glitzy new food hall in West Adams built around an enormous live-fire hearth. Yhing Yhang BBQ comes from Wedchayan “Deau” Arpapornnopparat, the chef behind Holy Basil. Here, the brilliant Thai-Chinese chef offers an exceptional fast-casual menu built around grilled chicken as well as a newer reservation-only $65 tasting menu, available only at the counter. On a comped media visit, I was able to preview the latter, which included a standout, deeply smoky version of khao soi—exclusive to the tasting menu—plus a Thai-style egg salad tartine and a general sampling of most other dishes. Compared to Holy Basil, which has locations in Downtown and Atwater (plus Santa Monica, opening this December), the streamlined menu caters to the spice-averse. Arpapornnopparat still manages to turn up the heat and funk in the condiment department, however, with a “holy sauce” (essentially a cross between a tomatillo salsa and a classic nam jjim) and a fermented chili garlic. Whether you’re grabbing a $23 combo plate to eat within the larger food hall or pulling up at the counter for the tasting menu, Yhing Yhang is still one of the best places I’ve eaten at this fall—and if you’re planning on taking a peek at Maydan, I recommend eating here first.