Nubeluz

My first thought upon arriving at Nubeluz wasn't about the striking jewel tones, the glitzy golden accents, or even the aromatic “cloud cocktails” floating about. Instead, what came to mind upon entering was, "Wow, the window cleaner here deserves a raise."

Perched on the 50th floor of The Ritz-Carlton New York–Nomad, Nubeluz’s floor-to-ceiling windows certainly do their job, giving crystal clear, 270-degree views of the southern tip of Manhattan. The bar sits like a crown jewel, looking down on its subjects, with greenish-blue velvet walls and blushing pink booths that curve, making for easy canoodling and cocktailing. Yet the best seats are the mirrored two-tops edged against the glass with sights so high, it may just make you lightheaded to look down.

The food certainly leans into the grandness of it all. Oysters? Creamy as ever, hidden under pickled foams and served on a platter of dry ice. Sandwiches? You’ll find the tea kind with grilled cheese and truffle butter for dipping. And caviar? Bumps of pearls are a currency here, appearing on tacos—like the José Andrés' version with thin slices of jamón Iberico with gold leaf—and on fists. Drinks follow in step as servers are quick to waft clouds of aromatic air in your face before you really know what's happening, leaving a buzz of melon around you and in the glass before you. Yes, the venture can lean more show than substance, such as with a $44 Maker's Mark cocktail that drinks like a regular Manhattan and the overall superfluous use of gold leaf—seemingly for the hell of it. But, hey, if this is the price for a view this good, 500 feet up in the air, we say enjoy the luxury while you can.