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The Camlin (CLOSED)

Bars, Wine bars Williamsburg
3 out of 5 stars
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
Paul WagtouiczThe Camlin
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
Paul WagtouiczWhite, red, sparkling and rose wines at the Camlin
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
Paul WagtouiczSidecar at the Camlin
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
Paul WagtouiczGimlet at the Camlin
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
Paul WagtouiczThe Sampler (jerk wings, deviled eggs, apple-onion salsa crostini, pretzel nuggets) at the Camlin
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczCroquettes at the Camlin 
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczDeviled eggs at the Camlin
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczCharcuterie at the Camlin
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
Paul WagtouiczBourbon-braised quail lasagna at the Camlin
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczOysters at the Camlin
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczThe Camlin

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

Already a formidable gastro duo thanks to their Hell’s Kitchen den Ardesia, Amorette Casaus and Mandy Oser have extended their handsomely minimal wine-bar empire to Brooklyn. Situated on a windy corner across from an empty warehouse—naturally—the monochromatic space, with its black accent wall, slate-gray couches and white lacquered tables, certainly looks the part of a Williamsburg wine bar, but there’s a warmth here to offset the cool.

ORDER THIS: Oser carefully culled a diverse list that spans regions, palates and price points. While there’s not much in the way of sparkling (extra brut, grüner veltliner) and rosé (vin gris de cigare), a dozen glasses each of red and white offerings are primed for sampling with a small group. The Italian grignolino ($12) pours deep brick-red and sips so smooth its smoky finish feels clean and light. Compare that to the plum-hued etna rosso ($15), whose full fruity body, especially its cherry notes, becomes more pronounced with each taste. To offset the sweet, end on the Argentine bonardo ($11), which lingers with a spicy kick.

GOOD FOR: Vino virgins. The knowledgeable waitstaff makes an overwhelming and extensive by-the-glass selection more manageable—sans snooty descriptors and haute tasting notes. Instead of dissecting the list of far-flung reds and whites cold, ask for a recommendation. A recent call for a lightly dry white ushered in an oaky yet tart and crisp minutolo from Puglia, Italy ($11). If you’re still not convinced, there’s a set of pristine, classic quaffs like a fresh-squeezed lime gimlet ($10) and an orange-forward sidecar ($13).

THE CLINCHER: From the kitchen, Casaus dishes out craveable small plates like a bourbon-braised quail lasagna layered with whipped ricotta and a bourbon-sloshed red sauce that makes the supple meat even richer ($18). Charred jerk wings ($9), spritzed with zippy lime to tame the Jamaican heat, are worth their finger-lickin’ lack of elegance. But as with the wine, it’s the curated picks that leave a lasting impression: Ask for the chef’s-choice cheese platter ($32), recently lined with woodsy smoked Timberdoodle from Vermont and dollops of fresh honey. Leave it to the pros and you’ll have no problem.

By: Rheanna O'Neil Bellomo



Address: 175 Kent Ave
Cross street: between Kent and Wythe Aves
Transport: Subway: L to Bedford Ave
Price: Average glass of wine: $10. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
Opening hours: Mon–Wed 4pm-midnight; Thu–Sat 11am–2am; Sun 11am–11pm
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