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After attracting a congregation of Brooklyn noodle devotees with Ganso, Harris Salat and chef Tadashi Ono (La Caravelle, Matsuri) expand with a yakitori offshoot opening Friday, March 13 just a few blocks down from their ramen-ya. Sharply focused on Japanese street food, the duo zooms in on shareable plates from the grill. “Most of what you see in New York is serene, very refined and serious Japanese cooking,” says Salat. “But we want to emulate the lively food-world vibe we’ve seen and experienced in Japan.”
Tadashi taps recipes from his upbringing in Shitamachi, Japan, including soulful dishes like hatcho-miso–glazed chicken wings and pork shumai. From the grill, he pulls skewers like negima (chicken and scallion) and tsukune (chicken meatballs) yakitori, and larger-format numbers including a cedar-plank–grilled trout and whole surume squid marinated in shoyu-ginger sauce. Traditional Japanese starters are given a slight bend, such as a Korean-style okonomiyaki pancake crowned in kimchi and oysters, and miso soup fortified with shiitake-mushroom broth and loaded with burdock and daikon.
The 15-bottle sake list centers on two wild-yeast varieties—kimoto and yamahai—that offer bold and crisp flavors and are sourced from generations-old, family-run breweries across the island, including Tamajima from Tokyo and Kurosawa from the Japanese Alps. 515 Atlantic Ave at Third Ave, Central Brooklyn, Brooklyn (718-403-0900, gansonyc.com)
Kushiyaki (duck and scallion) yakitori at Ganso YakiPhotograph: Liz Clayman
Okonomiyaki with cabbage and pork belly at Ganso YakiPhotograh: Liz Clayman
Sizzling miso-grilled salmon at Ganso YakiPhotograph: Liz Clayman