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New York City is full of iconic pockets. Certain subway stops, street corners, and, of course, tons of restaurant spaces with swirling nostalgia all fill the five boroughs like the titular ticker tape after a parade. Bleecker Street’s number 259 is one of those, once home to Zito & Sons bakery, which The New York Times called a “landmark” when it closed after 80 years in 2004. On Wednesday, February 28, after two more decades and some intervening operations, California-inspired restaurant Savta will open at the address.
Savta is owner Vincent Benoliel’s second NYC venture. It follows Pasta Corner in midtown, which Benoliel opened with his French pop singer friend Matt Pokora last summer. Benoliel divides his time between here and Los Angeles, where he also co-owns the original U.S. Pasta Corner (there are others in France), and a bakery called Michelina.
“Savta (grandmother in Hebrew) pays homage to Vincent’s grandmother Lisou Dahan who owned two restaurants in France and was a big influence in his life,” a press release reads. “She taught him everything he knows about cooking and baking.”
Savta’s baked goods will be made in-house, albeit on newer equipment.
“The oven from Zito & Sons is still in the kitchen,” Benoliel says via email. “It’s not in working condition anymore, unfortunately, but it’s a nice reminder of the rich history of the location.”
An early look at the weekend brunch menu includes several croissant varieties and pain Suisse among its carbs, in addition to Benedicts, omelets, pancakes and French toast. Plenty of pizzas like Pomodoro, mushroom, prosciutto and seafood varieties are available by day or night, and dinner brings plates like skirt steak, a veal chop Milanese, sea bass and cioppino. Lengthy vegetable sections appear on both menus.
“Vegetable-forward dishes are quintessentially Californian,” Benoliel says. “I put a lot of thought and care into those dishes on the menu, making sure to match the right vegetable with the perfect sauce — like the crispy artichoke hearts with a creamy lemon sauce or the Japanese eggplant with agrodolce. And I put a lot of love into the pizzas, too, fermenting the dough for 3-4 days to create a flavorful crust.”
Savta’s rusticly-chic space, lit in golden hues, seats about 80, including at the bar and on the covered, heated back patio. Wine, beer and low-ABV cocktails will be available.
Benoliel hadn’t had the chance to visit Zito & Sons before it shuttered back that same year Facebook (née, The Facebook) launched, Shrek 2 ruled the box office, and Sex and The City’s repackaging of this very neighborhood, among others, came to a close. But the area’s appeal, which predates all that, endures.
“I love Greenwich Village,” Benoliel says. When I’m there it somehow feels like we’re not in such a big city anymore. I started working on Savta in November, and when I stepped into the restaurant for the first time, I instantly fell in love with the space and the vibe. The cozy exposed brick is the perfect backdrop for an inviting meal, and the outdoor back patio adds that breezy California feel. It’s heated so we can use it year round.”
Savta is located at 259 Bleecker Street. It opens Wednesday, February 28.