As far as cookies go, there are very few biscuits as iconic as the black-and-white cookie. Usually cake-y in texture and devoted to an equal showcase of chocolate and vanilla flavors, the treat has largely come to define New York's dessert scene. That all makes it even more impressive that Breads Bakery has taken it upon itself to re-imagine the cookie.
The newly reimagined cookies is now available at Breads Bakery new location at 1294 Third Avenue, where Maison Kayser recently shuttered. According to an official press release, the former institution actually plays a role in the opening of the new one. "Gadi Peleg [the owner of Breads Bakery] stood in line the day Maison Kayser first opened and loved it," reads the announcement. "He was sad to see it close [and] he is thrilled to be able to capture some of the magic of baking breads and pastries where it all started for Maison Kayser and to continue serving that New York community."
Perhaps even more exciting than the launch of a new outpost is the menu that will exclusively be sold on the Upper East Side. In addition to a re-invented black-and-white cookie (more on that in just a moment), patrons will get to try a modern version of marble rye bread. Usually produced industrially, the bread will be made in small batches on site throughout the day, using a winter rye grown in Bethel, New York by Wildcraft Farms.
Back to the biscuit: As New Yorkers may know, Glaser's Bake Shop—the 116-year-old Upper East Side institution that officially closed down in 2018—is by most thought to be the original creator of the black and white cookie. Consider, then, Breads Bakery's new offering to be an homage to the new neighborhood it calls home.
The shop's version of the traditional treat seeks to accentuate both the vanilla and chocolate portion of the food using a laminated dough to create a complex texture and flavor. Specifically, bakers vowed to use only real, high-quality vanilla beans and extra dark cocoa powder mixed into the dough plus a cocoa breton cookie that features semi-sweet chocolate chips.
While you're at it, if you're visiting this week, make sure to grab some sweet, delicious sufganiyot just in time for Hanukkah.