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The Upper West Side Italian restaurant Lucciola has found a way to stand out amid the city's crowded field of similar eateries: it is now home to a traditional Modenese acetaia, a barrel-filled space where balsamic vinegar is aged and where diners can actually enjoy a meal.
The concept was developed in collaboration with Modena's renowned Giusti family, the oldest balsamic vinegar producers in the world. Founded in 1605 and still family-run 17 generations later, the company is synonymous with the craft.
Guests who reserve a seat inside the acetaia will enjoy a six-course tasting menu, with each dish paired with a different Giusti aged vinegar. According to an official press release, Lucciola executive chef and owner Michele Casadei Massari has "adopted his own personal line of barrels inside the Giusti acetaia in Modena, which are tapped only twice a year to produce his exclusive custom balsamic."
Standout dishes from this season's menu include the lightly baked zucchini blossom prepared with whipped Parmigiano Reggiano mousse and lemon zest; the spaghettoni with fava bean cream, whipped butter and zucchini blossom; the roasted veal served with baby artichokes, cipollotto fondente and veal jus; and the milk custard dessert with rhubarb compote. Each one obviously drizzled (or drenched?) in delectable balsamic vinegar.
“Balsamic vinegar has always been treated as an accessory—something to finish a dish. I wanted to flip that logic and let it lead,” said chef Massari in an official statement. “Each course was conceived to bring out the character of a specific vinegar: its wood, its acidity, its age. Giusti’s vinegars are complex enough to be the protagonist. This menu is my way of giving them a voice.”
The space itself has been thoughtfully designed to reflect the tradition behind the meal. Charger plates are cut from retired barrels and engraved with the type of wood they came from, while ceramic tasting spoons rest on handcrafted wooden holders inspired by Japanese hashioki.
If that sounds luxurious, that's because it is: dinner inside the acetaia, which you can book right here, costs $239 per guest. Additional wine pairing options come in at $110.