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When it comes to marketing the sparkling, new class of steakhouses, I've been beaten over the head with the phrase, "This ain't your dad's steakhouse!" But, I have to ask, was there really anything wrong with Pop's choice?
Of course, that's not to say that there isn't something completely exciting about the crop of restaurants that have deviated from dear old dad's pick, as contemporary options include prime rib trolleys that zoom around the dining room (Daniel Boulud's La Tete d'Or) to the koji-rubbed and Korean-inflected creations (chef Sungchul Shim's GUI Steakhouse). But to me, there is nothing quite as transformative as an old haunt of place, pleasing the eye with a delicious collection of cherrywoods and curved booths, as well as the stomach with prime cuts of the good stuff, pierced and strung on metal skewers. Golden Steer, an import from Sin City, certainly scratches that old-timey itch.
Golden Steer's arrival marks a first for the storied Las Vegas institution. Established in 1958, Golden Steer holds the title of the longest-running steakhouse in Las Vegas. A relic of its time, the dark and moody hall once hosted the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Muhammad Ali and the entirety of The Rat Pack, as golden plaques still proudly hang near their favorite booths. Its mob-esque interior even served as a backdrop for the 1995 film "Casino," boosting its notoriety even further. Its January introduction has now brought a touch of that Vegas glamour to the equally glamorous One Fifth building, which was formerly home to Marc Forgione’s Trattoria One Fifth.
Much like its predecessor, Golden Steer is all about that old-school vibe. And that vibe is all Vegas, baby. The mahogany-rich entryway leads to a swanky bar with mirrored ceilings and fringe that cascades on the walls and shimmies over light fixtures. An intimidating, life-sized Doc Holliday slot machine welcomes all to a hallway-sized dining area, cheekily-named "The Strip," featuring a play-by-play collage of Western-inspired paintings recreated from the Vegas locale and stained glass lamps perched between black leather booths. It all leads to the sultry red main room, glowing with fluted light fixtures and dramatic velvet curtains. The Ol' Blue Eyes heavy soundtrack ties the fantasy altogether.
Naturally, the food operates on a similar throwback level. Leaning into the show of it all is the steakhouse's "Famous Caesar Salad" that's wheeled up to the table by a white-jacketed server, for a show of dressing and greens. The resulting Caesar does live up to its name, sharp in garlic and pepper, heavily finished with a snow of cheese because, as my server said, "If you want to please them, cheese them.” Continuing with must-add starters is the Parmesan-crusted and nicely firm shrimp de Jonghe that swims in an orangey pool of butter, herbs and sherry.
The steaks are naturally the main draw for this golden cow, from the bone-rib eye to shorthorn cut a.k.a a New York strip. You can up the ante with a little surf and turf action, including the addition of a knuckle-sized lobster sidekicked with a generous chalice of butter. The lobster and petite filet combo was a good enough choice, but the crust left something to be desired, falling apart too easily and tasting a bit like ash. The Vegas' Largest Baked Potato side dish is something to be marveled at, its size that of an overfed chihuahua that's been pumped with sour cream, bits of bacon and cheese. But its bulk also proves to be its downfall, as it comes to the table unevenly cooked and lukewarm. However, the finale of the meal brings it back up again another wheeled cart (the mileage on that thing!) comes around for a show of bananas foster or cherry jubilee.
So for those of us who like a glitzy something with tons of nostalgia mixed in, this golden cow is certainly something to be cherished.