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What links the Quality Branded restaurants? A commitment to the wow factor—think pinwheel lasagnas at Don Angie or the bold, head-on shrimp parm at San Sabino. Then there’s the campy maximalism of Bad Roman and the mirrored ‘80s glam of Twin Tails. The hospitality group is placing even greater emphasis on looks for their latest, Limusina, a fun, luxurious Mexican restaurant at Hudson Yards that caters to corporate-card-carrying types and content creators looking for their next big social media hit. For the rest of us? It’s a relatively good time if you can afford it. (Read: fun doesn’t come cheap.)
The parking-garage-turned-restaurant hits a retro-futuristic vibe with commanding chandeliers, glass and mirrored accents and a green marble lower level, nicknamed the pool. Bits of its former self remain in the form of exposed concrete pillars with etched flowers. That and the name itself, Limusina, tips its hat to the various buses and limos that may have rolled in once upon a time. The service staff was as friendly as they come, despite the restaurant’s exclusivity: the 5,000-square-foot space is hidden behind thick orange-hued drapes.
The food here is Mexican, much of it flashy and careful not to commit itself to a particular region. The sweet, plump shrimp, sliced open with head and antennae still attached, are splattered in a wonderfully puckery mix of calamansi and blood orange, so much so that it looks like a Rorschach painting. The pork belly chicharron curl hits all the marks: salty, with an audible crunch as you bite in, complemented by a nutty swipe of peanut mole and a zip of jalapeño jelly. The solteros, sold as nacho singles, address the problem of the under-dressed chip—each half-moon shell is slick with melty cheese, studs of shredded beef and an appropriate amount of cilantro. Though it does come at a cost of $24 for just six bites. A nod to Mexican street food, the quesadillas are served machete-style, aka they look like a blade and are as long as a forearm and then some. It makes for a rippable affair between friends, but the black truffle and guava can turn a bit too sweet once it all starts to cool, which, given the size, it will.
You know how sizzling enchiladas are usually the head turner at your local restaurant? At Limusina, the honor goes to the red snapper tacos, arriving at the table as a whole, deep-fried fish in all its craggly glory, sticky to the touch thanks to a sweet pineapple chipotle glaze that packs some heat. Fork off chunks of tender meat to stuff inside your taco, but keep in mind this fish still has teeth and can bite back if you pull from its cheek. Flashy and fun? Yes. But the spectacle comes at a high price: $95 for the snapper served alongside hockey-puck-sized tortillas and slaw. So you'll likely need a side. But the options that I chose were a bit underwhelming, the grilled corn ribs ($18) were rather plain with hardly any black pepper honey butter and the fried sweet potatoes ($18) with a bright-green cilantro crema were fine enough but expensive for a simple veggie side.
The drinks pick it back up, however, as tequila and mezcal reign supreme here, with over 50 expressions. As for cocktails, there are five types of margaritas, a Tajin-infused tequila martini and frozen vampiros. Tequila tastings in the private room are also on the horizon.
Much like its restaurant siblings, Limusina is a fun-fueled romp for those who can afford it. One has to wonder about its repeat value for the rest of us, given its dips in food and high prices. However, one order of ceviche and an excellently made cocktail in hand might be worth it to soak up the sights and cosplay new money, even if for a night.