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  1. Photograph: Jolie Ruben
    Photograph: Jolie Ruben

    Ma-yu ramen at Hide-Chan

    Broth: Tonkotsu (pork-back bone, garlic, soy sauce and pork-back oil)
    Noodles: House-made straight noodles (ask for them firm if you like your noodles al dente)
    Toppings: Mayu (charred garlic oil), pork char siu, scallion and jelly-ear mushrooms
    Conversation piece: Owner Bobby Munekata's mini empire also includes Totto Ramen, Soba Totto and Yakitori Totto. 366 W 52nd St between Eighth and Ninth Aves (212-582-0052). $9.75.

  2. Photograph: Krista Schlueter
    Photograph: Krista Schlueter

    Extreme Spicy Ramen at Totto Ramen

    Broth: Paitan (chicken bones and vegetables)
    Noodles: House-made straight, thin noodles
    Toppings: Original rayu (house-made spicy chili sauce), pork or chicken char siu, scallion, bean sprout and nori seaweed
    Conversation piece: Totto's special spicy sauce—made with charred-sesame oil, red chili pepper, black pepper and garlic—is not lip-singeing, but the steaming broth coats your mouth and throat in chili, creating a slow burn that builds up as you work your way through the bowl. (Read more: the city's spiciest dishes.) 248 E 52nd St between Second and Third Aves, second floor (212-813-1800). $10.50.

  3. Photograph: Lizz Kuehl
    Photograph: Lizz Kuehl

    Shiro ramen at Ramen Misoya

    Broth: Shiro miso, chicken and pork bones, ginger, seaweed kelp, vegetables and garlic
    Noodles: Thick, wavy noodles
    Toppings: Fried tofu, bean sprouts, cabbage, bamboo shoots and miso-simmered ground pork
    Conversation piece: The Misoya chain, which was founded just outside Tokyo in Chiba, focuses on different regional styles of miso ramen—the shiro variety is typical of Kyoto. 129 Second Ave between St. Marks Pl and E 7th St (212-677-4825). $10.50.

  4. Photograph: Lizz Kuehl
    Photograph: Lizz Kuehl

    Pork-bone ramen at Chuko

    Broth: Tonkotsu (pig's feet, pork belly, ham bones, pork scraps and bacon)
    Noodles: Straight, thin noodles
    Toppings: Mustard greens, poached egg, duroc pork or Giannone chicken, and scallions
    Conversation piece: The two chefs in the kitchen—Jamison Blankenship and David Koon—are both Morimoto vets, and they spent months testing different broths, noodles and toppings to create the three bowls on their opening menu. 552 Vanderbilt Ave between Bergen and Dean Sts, Prospect Heights, Brooklyn (718-576-6701). $12.

  5. Momofuku ramen at Momofuku Noodle Bar

    Broth: Kelp, shiitake mushrooms, chicken, scallion, mirin, soy, sake and Benton's bacon
    Noodles: Straight alkaline noodles
    Toppings: Roasted pork belly, roasted pork shoulder, nori, napa cabbage, a poached egg, sliced scallions and a fish cake
    Conversation piece: The first issue of Lucky Peach—David Chang's quarterly magazine, published by McSweeney's—includes a travelogue of the chef's ramen-eating adventures in Tokyo. 171 First Ave between 10th and 11th Sts (212-777-7773). $16.

  6. Photograph: Lindsay Maclean Taylor
    Photograph: Lindsay Maclean Taylor

    Wild black cod ramen at Souen Organic Ramen

    Broth: Vegetable, kale, shiitake mushroom stock and wild black-cod stock
    Noodles: Your choice of wheat noodles, rice noodles, brown-rice or zucchini noodles
    Toppings: Wild black cod, nappa cabbage, carrots, onion, broccoli, cauliflower, kale and leeks
    Conversation piece: Souen specializes in macrobiotic, vegan and vegetarian Japanese food; there is a gluten-free option for almost every dish on the menu. 326 E 6th St between First and Second Aves (212-388-1155). $14.50.

  7. Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
    Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

    Terakawa Ramen at Terakawa Ramen

    Broth: Tonkotsu (three kinds of pork bones—head, backbone and knees—are cooked for a minimum of 14 hours, and then left to sit for at least 12 more hours)
    Noodles: Straight, thin noodles
    Toppings: Roasted pork belly, kikurage mushrooms, pickled ginger, scallions and bamboo shoots
    Conversation piece: While tonkotsu is most commonly associated with Japan's Hakata region, Terakawa has its roots in Kumamoto, a nearby prefecture known for its slightly milder variation on the style. 885 Ninth Ave between 57th and 58th Sts (212-777-2939). $9.

  8. Photograph: Chiara Marinai
    Photograph: Chiara Marinai

    Tonkotsu ramen at Minca

    Broth: An 80/20 blend of pork and chicken stocks, made in house with bones and flavored with Mongolian salt
    Noodles: Choice of five varieties—owner Shigeto Kamada suggests very thick, plain noodles
    Toppings: Mountain vegetables, Chinese-style mushrooms, bamboo shoots, scallions, slow-cooked pork belly, egg and nori
    Conversation piece: Kamada fell in love with tonkotsu ramen while living in Tokyo in his twenties, and always wanted to create his own version of the famous pork broth. 536 E 5th St between Aves A and B (212-505-8001). $10.50.

  9. Photograph: Chiara Marinai
    Photograph: Chiara Marinai

    Tsukemen at Kambi

    Broth: Tonkotsu (an 80/20 blend of house-made pork and chicken stocks, thickened with fish powder and other secret ingredients)
    Noodles: Extremely thick, similar to udon
    Toppings: Mountain vegetables, Chinese-style mushrooms, bamboo shoots, scallions, slow-cooked pork belly, egg and nori
    Conversation piece: Tsukemen is also referred to by the name dipping noodles; rather than being combined in one bowl, the noodles and toppings are served on the side, then dipped with chopsticks into the broth. 351 E 14th St between First and Second Aves (212-228-1366). $12–$14.

  10. Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
    Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

    Salt-and-butter ramen at Tokyo Restaurant

    Broth: Chicken-based broth, with butter and salt added
    Noodles: Slightly wavy
    Toppings: Pork char siu, bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, spinach, scallions and boiled egg
    Conversation piece: Restaurant Tokyo is one of the stalwarts of Japanese dining in NYC; it's been in business for more than 40 years and serves a wide range of dishes. 342 Lexington Ave between 39th and 40th Sts (212-697-8330). $13.75.

  11. Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson
    Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson

    Akamaru Modern at Ippudo NY

    Broth: Tonkotsu cooked for 12–15 hours with pork bones from Berkshire pigs  
    Noodles: Thin, straight noodles made in-house
    Toppings: Pork-belly char siu, cabbage, kikurage mushrooms, scallions, garlic oil and umami dama (umami ball)
    Conversation: Ippudo was brought to NYC by Shigemi Kawahara, who is known as "the Ramen King" in Japan; his rich, cloudy tonkotsu broths draw the longest lines of any of the city's ramen-ya, and they're well worth the wait. 65 Fourth Ave between 9th and 10th Sts (212-388-0088). $15.

  12. Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
    Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

    Green curry miso ramen at Zuzu Ramen

    Broth: Chicken-based stock mixed with white and red miso, green curry paste, Thai chili peppers, garlic, soy and dashi
    Noodles: Straight egg noodles
    Toppings: Thai basil, cilantro, soft-cooked egg, scallions and pork-belly char siu
    Conversation piece: This Brooklyn joint is known for its creative, nontraditional ramen styles, including a hot-and-sour variety with shrimp and lemongrass. 173 Fourth Ave at DeGraw St, Park Slope, Brooklyn (718-398-9898). $10.

  13. Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
    Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

    Kanton men at Menkui Tei

    Broth: Soy- and seaweed-based broth
    Noodles: Curly egg noodles
    Toppings: Roasted pork, scallions, bean sprouts, bamboo shoots and egg
    Conversation piece: This no-frills ramen spot—with plenty of seats to spare for a procession of NYU students and Japanese regulars—is a solid backup plan for anyone who doesn't want to wait for a table at nearby Ippudo. 63 Cooper Sq between Astor Pl and E 7th St (212-228-4152). From $10.

  14. Photograph: Lindsay M Taylor
    Photograph: Lindsay M Taylor

    Curry ramen at Rai Rai Ken

    Broth: Kelp broth with curry mixed in
    Noodles: Slightly wavy noodles
    Toppings: Roasted pork, egg, scallions and seaweed
    Conversation piece: With just 14 stools overlooking an open kitchen, Rai Rai Ken is a good approximation of the small, humble ramen-ya found throughout Japan. 214 E 10th St between First and Second Aves (212-447-7030). $8.50.

  15. Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
    Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

    Shio ramen at Ramen Takumi

    Broth: Chicken-based shio (salt) broth
    Noodles: Straight, thin noodles
    Toppings: Bamboo shoots, boiled egg, seaweed, grilled pork and anchovies
    Conversation piece: Shio ramen is popular on Hokkaido, a northern Japanese island where lots of expensive salt is mined, and in Tokyo. 90 University Pl between 11th and 12th Sts (212-229-2752). Lunch $9.45, dinner $10.45.

  16. Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
    Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

    Sapporo Special Ramen at Sapporo

    Broth: Miso and chicken broth mixed and cooked together for eight hours
    Noodles: Egg and wheat noodles—medium-thick and slightly wavy
    Toppings: Braised pork, diced pork, corn, spinach, scallions and bamboo shoots
    Conversation piece: Sapporo is known as the birthplace of miso ramen. According to lore, the variant was invented in 1955, when a customer asked a chef to add some noodles to his miso-and-pork soup. 152 W 49th St between Sixth and Seventh Aves (212-869-8972). $10.

  17. Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
    Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

    Tsukemen at Sanshiro (at SEO)

    Broth: Soy-sauce–based dipping broth
    Noodles: Wavy and thick
    Toppings: Pork, egg, spinach and bamboo shoots
    Conversation piece: This pop-up ramen joint takes over the kitchen at midtown sushi restaurant SEO from 11pm to around 2am each night. 249 E 49th St between Second and Third Aves (212-355-7722). $12.50.

  18. Photograph: Talia Shim
    Photograph: Talia Shim

    Shio ramen at Ramen Setagaya

    Broth: Original shio broth made with chicken and pork bones, dried scallops, mushrooms, anchovies, garlic, ginger and cabbage
    Noodles: Thin wheat noodles
    Toppings: Barbecued pork, salted eggs, seaweed, bamboo shoots, scallions and scallop powder
    Conversation piece: This Japanese export started in Tokyo before making the jump to the East Village; the shio broth here is unique for its nontraditional use of chicken and pork bones. 34 St. Marks Pl between Second and Third Aves (212-387-7959). $10.

  19. Photograph: Courtesy of Kubo Hiroshi
    Photograph: Courtesy of Kubo Hiroshi

    Kubo-chan shio at Kuboya

    Broth: A light-bodied blend of seafood, chicken and pork broths; seasoning includes dried shrimp and dried scallop
    Noodles: Slightly thin and wavy, custom-made with Japanese wheat
    Toppings: Pork char siu, bamboo shoots, cooked egg and scallions
    Conversation piece: Owner Hiroshi Kubo grew up eating ramen in Tokyo, but he spent six years of his youth in Fukuoka, where he fell in love with the tonkotsu broth popular there. With his mash-up recipes, he seeks to combine his favorite types of ramen into an original New York style. 536 E 5th St between Aves A and B (212-777-7010). $10.50; half size $7.

  20. Photograph: Hannah Mattix
    Photograph: Hannah Mattix

    Hakata ramen at Menchanko Tei

    Broth: Rich, cloudy Hakata-style pork-bone broth
    Noodles: Very thin and straight
    Toppings: Pork char siu, black mushrooms, red ginger and scallions
    Conversation piece: In addition to several varieties of ramen, this midtown spot also offers "Menchanko" soups, inspired by traditional, hearty stews eaten by sumo wrestlers. They are served in large cast-iron pots packed with noodles, meat, seafood, vegetables and a light soy-sauce-based broth. 131 E 45th St between Lexington and Third Aves (212-986-6805). $8.50.

20 essential ramen dishes

TONY breaks down the specs of some of the city's best steaming bowls.

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