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Bowery Meat Company

Restaurants, Steakhouse East Village
2 out of 5 stars
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczBowery steak at Bowery Meat Company
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczDuck lasagna at Bowery Meat Company
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczVeal chop at Bowery Meat Company
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczBroiled oysters at Bowery Meat Company
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczBowery Meat Company
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczBowery Meat Company

Time Out says

2 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

John McDonald and Josh Capon's nouveau steakhouse is a cut below.

The stereotype around steakhouses is that they’re boys’ clubs—cognac-hued, dick-swinging temples of T-bones and testosterone. That meaty machismo still pervades the old regime—Luger, Keens, Delmonico’s—but chophouses of recent memory (M. Wells, Costata) have attempted to break free from those he-man confines, emphasizing plates beyond stock Cro-Magnon cuts.

Bowery Meat Company makes a similar effort to distance itself from that steakhouse lineage—owner John McDonald and chef Josh Capon (Lure Fishbar) have clumsily dubbed it a “meatcentric restaurant”—but the hulking slabs of beast remain, as do token sides (wilted, oily spinach; potato in all its forms) and a finance-whale clientele, whipping out gold cards with a fervor that would leave Christian Grey breathless.

Meals in the mildly midcentury dining room begin with a Torrisian outpouring of freebies: a tile of soft bacon-rosemary focaccia here, a crispy ball of timid, more-rice-than-flesh oxtail arancino there.

While you peruse starters like broiled, butter-drenched oysters, crammed with romano and a chest-hair–growing supply of garlic ($21), or Northern Lights caviar–topped deviled “eggs” (it’s one egg, for 25 bucks—seriously), servers hoist wooden boards of raw meat around the room to tantalize diners with three-figure côte de boeuf.

Don’t be suckered by that gleaming display. If you’re going to settle for Bowery’s run-of-the-mill steaks, you’ll sleep slightly better at night knowing you only forked over one Grant for the house specialty ($54), a nipped-and-tucked fatty deckle whose mineral funk is instantly overpowered by the jarring salsa verde on top, or an Amish veal chop ($52) that, though near-cold when it arrived to our table, does boast a healthy char and well-seasoned Moorish rub of cumin, coriander and fennel seed.

Altogether, Bowery may be good enough for impress-a-client pageantry, but it sure as hell doesn’t cut it for New York.

By: Christina Izzo

Posted:

Details

Address: 9 E 1st St
New York
10003
Cross street: between Bowery and Second Ave
Transport: Subway: F to Second Ave; 6 to Bleecker St
Price: Average entree: $24. AmEx, MC, V
Contact:
Opening hours: Daily 11am–11pm
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