Silvia Barban sees a lot of Italian restaurants in New York that bill themselves as trattorias. And she also thinks that a lot of them are wrong. Seeing as how Barban hails from Northern Italy and spins and smokes pasta like she does, we are inclined to believe her. Looking to give New Yorkers some truth to genre, Barban opened Briscola Trattoria in September of 2024. And even though trattorias are no-frills, low-key affairs, we think you should be making a fuss about Briscola. Tapping into the essence of trattorias that dotted Italy in the '80s and '90s, infused with a bit of her flair, Briscola is a little bit modern, a little bit retro, with its lineup of golden-fried crowns of artichoke flans and showstopping, rounded domes of all things carbs.
The vibe: Briscola is a good visit any time of day (they do have French toast drizzled in pistachios and chocolate for brunch after all), but the evening is when things come alive. Flickering candles give even more warmth to the heavy wooden space that illuminates bottles that line up near the ceiling. By April of this year, the trattoria took over the space next door, making more room for large gatherings over good times and good pasta. There, you'll also find the heart of the restaurant as a chalkboard spells out the rules for the Briscola card game, from where the restaurant bears its name.
The food: According to Barban, trattorias are all about that "familiar feeling of being taken care of." And let's just say Briscola makes us feel like we've arrived back at home, each and every time we visit. Thin pasta strands hug silky sauces and sweet breads, while hearty broccoli rabe stems marry with cheese, bread crumbs and anchovies. The Bomba di Riso—which combines Barban's northern and southern heritage—spills out with hand-rolled meatballs, tomato-tinged rice and enough cheese that will yield that telltale pull. But before you carb-load too much, save room for the dessert cart you'll hear before you see, heavy with cocoa-dusted tiramisu and pistachio cakes.
The drinks: Naturally, there are tons of Italian wines to choose from, as well as spritzes and negronis for the sipping. The house classic goes to the Sourbara, a mezcal-based cocktail that drinks relatively light with a spritz of lemon and a float of Lambrusco.
Time Out tip: If you book the last seating on Tuesdays and Wednesday nights, you can learn how to play the Italian card game the restaurant is named for.