Initially operating as a tour guide in Ethiopia, Liyuwork Ayalew transitioned to the restaurant industry after moving to the United States, simultaneously pursuing a degree in architecture while working in bars and coffee shops. While at Think Coffee, he met Sam Severance. The two bonded over a shared love of Ethiopia, as Severance had recently returned from the country after teaching children graphic design. Looking to shine a positive light on the region, the two began cooking the food of Ethiopia, popping up at the various lofts, galleries and rooftops of New York. Soon, they began renting out the kitchen of a Southern restaurant in Bushwick, hawking a $7 lunch special that caught the attention of The New York Times. An opportunity arose to take the space, and Bunna Cafe officially opened in 2014. Ten years later, the traditional Ethiopian has become a fixture of Bushwick.
Traditional Beyaynetu, the popular vegan Ethiopian platter, can be found here. Plant-based items include whole red lentils simmered in a smoky, berbere sauce, yellow-tinged cabbage cooked down with carrots and steamed collard greens that retain some crunch and a bit of tang. It all comes served on a blanket of spongy injera bread. With its shareable cuisine and complimentary coffee service on the weekends, Bunna Cafe has become an escape from the hustle of it all.
The vibe: Inside the brightly colored building, Ayalew was able to flex his architectural know-how. Behind the bar, you can find woodworking that reflects the eleven churches of Lalibela that date back to the 13th century. Meanwhile, the rear of the restaurant features a makeshift hut with a thatched roof, where weekend coffee ceremonies are held.
The food: Since day one, the cafe has served vegan Ethiopian fare, one of the first in the country to do so. Beyond the sizable and shareable Beyaynetu platter, you can find Ayalew's childhood snack of toasted injera rubbed with berbere in the Kategna, as well as sambusas filled with a mixture of lentils and peppers. Weekend brunch includes scrambles of ground chickpeas and sautéed fava beans alongside Nigella Fritters, a fried hard ball of dough that hides a fluffy and warm interior filled with flaxseed.
The drinks: Drinks are infused with African flavors, featuring hibiscus cognac cocktails and tosign or thyme tea toddies, alongside Ethiopian beers and even mead. Non-alcoholic options range from caffeine-free teas and puréed mango, avocado, and papaya juices, which drink more like a smoothie. Order the Espris to experience all three.
Time Out tip: Every weekend at 5pm, a lone staff member toasts and roasts coffee beans for Bunna's coffee ceremony. The complimentary experience offers guests and staff alike a drink of coffee, which you can enjoy black or with sugar and a shot of ginger.