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Decoy

Restaurants, Chinese West Village
3 out of 5 stars
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
1/6
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczDecoy
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczDecoy
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
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Photograph: Erica GannettSitting Down For Dinner at Decoy
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
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Photograph: Erica Gannett¡El Luchador! at Decoy
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
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Photograph: Erica GannettShrimp-stuffed chicken wings at Decoy
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
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Photograph: Erica GannettCrispy mushroom dumplings at Decoy

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

RedFarm’s come of age—cocktails, not cartoon dumplings, are the backbone of this late-night lounge and duck house, from dim sum boosters Ed Schoenfeld and Joe Ng. Below their always-packed West Village restaurant, the Chinese-twisting team unveils a witching-hour haunt clad in dim lighting, dark wood and sultry Solomon Burke tunes, where the only things tastier than the crowd-pleasing cocktails are the bar bites you’ll need to stay on your feet.

DRINK THIS: Sometimes Schoenfeld and Ng’s playfulness (see: Pac-Man-shaped sweet potatoes) can veer toward the cheesy when it comes to drinks (a rice-vodka Osakatini, really?). But when that zaniness is reined in, it yields satisfying tongue-in-cheek cocktails ($14) like the chili-spiked pineapple-mescal concoction, Smoke N Spice. The whiskey-sour update Sitting Down for Dinner gets a hit of duck in the form of silky, fat-washed George Dickel (fat is infused with alcohol, chilled and removed to give the whiskey a light meatiness) and an egg-white froth stenciled with a crime-scene outline of the bird.

GOOD FOR: Better-than-pub-grub grub. RedFarm classics like spicy crispy beef and supple pork-and-shrimp dumplings play double duty downstairs, but Ng also turns out new creations, like intensely ducky buns ($16) crammed with both roasted and grilled fowl. The turducken-esque chicken wings ($14) are a barstool spin-off of upstairs’ shrimp-stuffed chicken special: Crusty, cumin-spiked batter encases the moist combo of surf and turf, served with cooling peanut sauce.

THE CLINCHER: Like upstairs, a sole 24-seat table bisects the slip of a room, with longtime RedFarm devotees and fresh-faced West Villagers bumping elbows over frothy Sixpoint pints and steaming bok-choy dumplings. Newly acquainted tablemates flirtily trade skewers for bites of sea-bass-and-avocado tart, a buzzed intimacy missing in the busy barn upstairs. Decoy has the takeout-upgraded Chinese that makes RedFarm great, but with its boozy focus, the fun here is of the grown-up kind.

By: Christina Izzo

Posted:

Details

Address: 529 1/2 Hudson St
New York
10014
Cross street: between Charles and W 10th Sts
Transport: Subway: 1 to Christopher St–Sheridan Sq
Price: Average entrée: $16. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
Contact:
Opening hours: Daily 5pm-1:30am
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