Molecular whiz Wylie Dufresne reaches into his bag of kitchen tricks for this elegant chowder. In a play on the name, the golden-brown “oyster crackers” accompanying the bowl are actual oysters. For the illusory crispy orbs, chefs puree West Coast bivalves, stir them with corn and tapioca starches, and fry thin slices of the dough until they puff up to resemble the plastic-wrapped originals. 157 Second Ave between 9th and 10th Sts (212-539-1900, aldernyc.com). $16.
This Halloween, drunk New Yorkers aren’t the only ones pulling on a mask. Thrill-seeking diners take note: Boundary-pushing chefs are waving their magic tongs and pulling out all the molecular gastronomy stops to serve sleight-of-hand plates. At modern restaurants like Alder, Atera and Jungsik, you can find crackers made from oysters, edible rocks and a Caprese salad that mimes bibimbap.
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