It’s not the simple blue-and-white decor that lure capacity crowds to this Astoria taverna. It’s the glistening display of seafood destined to become dinner that keeps them coming back. Elias’s grilled fish stands out even in a ’hood packed with seafood-centric Greek restaurants. Those in the know order the swordfish kebabs, fired up simply with green peppers, onions and tomatoes. Dessert isn’t served on weekends, but keep an eye peeled for the occasional special of loukoumades—sweet dough fritters drizzled in honey.