Historically, pizza-crazed New York has been more readily welcoming to the za styles of the Italian motherland—the coal-fired Neapolitan; the spongy Sicilian square—than those of its stateside counterparts. (Jon Stewart’s infamous and impassioned diatribe against Chicagoan deep dish—in which he compares the regional specialty to “an above-ground marinara swimming pool for rats”—is cutting proof.)
There are exceptions to the shunning rule: the provel-cheese–topped St. Louis round at Speedy Romeo, the Chicago tavern pie at Emmett’s and, now, the Detroit-style pizza at Emmy Squared, the much-hyped Williamsburg follow-up to Matt and Emily Hyland’s wood-fired Clinton Hill, Brooklyn, darling, Emily. Inside the 50-seat, casual-sleek parlor—where overalls-clad Brooklyn moms juggle a newborn with one arm and a slice with the other, and off-duty chefs in snapbacks unload with on-tap rum punch—the married couple serves six-slice rectangles that have all the hallmarks of the Detroit pan-baked style: air-pocked, puff-and-fluff dough that’s thicker than the New York slice but thinner than the Windy City deep dish; cheese baked right into the crust until the buttery, barely risen cornicione takes on an addictively crispy frico texture; and sauce that’s Pollack-splashed on top rather than pooled in the center.
It’s a hearty Midwestern framework that the pair builds off of (neither is a Michigan native; their first taste of the style was from the Grand Poobah of Detroit pizza parlors, Buddy’s, via mail order), with pies like the namesake Emmy ($18), which jolts gooey mozzarella with squiggles of cilantro-mint ranch dressing and the acidic zip of banana peppers, plus slivered onions and a dipping crock of tangy marinara. That plucky sauce serves as a sweet foil to the gusto of Calabrian chili and crisped-and-curled pepperoni in the Roni Supreme ($19) and a melting agent for cool, creamy pulls of burrata that festoon the house’s basil-trimmed Margherita ($21).
Like at Emily, which became as much known for the Hylands’ superb burger as for their standout pies, there’s more than just dreamy caramelized crusts and good marinara here. There’s, of course, an excellent burger—the off-menu, double-stacked Le Big Matt layered with American cheese, pickles and special sauce ($22)—and a spicy chicken sandwich that rivals Fuku’s in sheer size and crunch, a glorious mess of salsa pica, radishes, mizuna and ranch ($16).
But pizza’s why you’re here, as it should be—if there’s one thing Gothamites are skilled at, it’s recognizing great pizza, and Emmy Squared has it. Detroit proud or otherwise, this is one transplant we happily welcome to New York.
|Venue name:||Emmy Squared|
364 Grand St
|Cross street:||between Havemeyer St and Marcy Ave|
|Opening hours:||Mon, Wed–Fri noon–3pm, 6pm–midnight; Sat, Sun noon–4pm, 5pm–midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: G to Metropolitan Ave; J, M, Z to Marcy Ave; L to Lorimer St|
|Price:||Average pizza: $16|
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
4.2 / 5
- 5 star:2
- 4 star:3
- 3 star:1
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:0
I didn't think I could love something more than Emily, the original location, but I was wrong! Best pizza I've had in a long time with even better service!
out of control good. the kale salad was prob the best i've ever had, planned on left over's- nope. the pizza was also wayyy better than i was expecting, and i was expecting it to be top top top. also planned on left over's- nope. the cocktail i had was the special and on tap, was also fantastic. bartender was extra nice. if you haven't been to this famous food trending spot yet, the hype is real, go now.
OK Guys. The hype is.... not real. It's just not. Is it good? Yes, it is GOOD, good like I enjoy going out to eat and have a nice, pleasant meal. But is it OMG SO GOOD I NEVER WANT TO LEAVE?! No, it's not. For that, you need to go to the OG spot Emily. The spicy chicken sandwich is good. The truffle white pizza is good. The curds are great. The fries, the wings, and the desserts...I could live without. I think the worst part, right now, is the fact that EVERY social media blogger is visiting this place and hyping the pies to no end. It made me walk in with way too high of expectations. That's the truth.... so stop by if you're in the hood. But don't go out of your way.