Frena

The stretch of 10th Street that runs through Hell's Kitchen can feel a little like a no-man's land. It's just far enough from the train and just close enough to the water, which can give us a noticeable chill in the winter, that meeting here can be a trek. But the fire burning at Frena is reason enough to set your sights on the western side of the city.

Frena is a bit of a second act, as it stands in the former location of the Moroccan-Israeli restaurant Taboon, which stood for almost two decades before a fire permanently shuttered its doors in 2021. However, the namesake Moroccan clay oven stunningly remained intact. Frena carries on its legacy, reviving familiar, fire-kissed breads brushed with olive oil and salt, as well as butterflied branzino that bubble with chimichurri.

The oven goes into overtime during brunch, churning out seven (count em', seven!) varieties of shakshuka, from tried-and-true classic next to a halloumi version with chargrilled squares of cheese. And it all comes with a Jerusalem-style bagel stick so you can tear and sop up all the good bits at your leisure.