Before HAGS even opened its doors, Telly Justice was very clear on what she envisioned her restaurant to be, telling Eater in 2022, "This is going to be queer first, restaurant second. It has to be." What resulted is a tiny restaurant that caters to people who are vegan, gluten-free and have omnivorous appetites, and one that starts each week with a brunch special that invites all to the table—no matter if they can pay or not. With partner and beverage director Camille Lindsley by her side, Justice shows New York what fine dining could be when identity and community are at the helm.
The vibe: With a name that equally stands for a witchy, haggard woman and the popular school-aged acroynm, "have a great summer," you can bet there is a ton of whimsy to be found at HAGS. Heart-shaped lamps glow pink in corners and on gold-coated tables. Greeting cards serve as the menus, personally stamped by the staff every day. The shoebox-sized, 18-seat dining room can't help but breed a certain closeness and community as friends share glasses of wine seated at one of the nude-y pink banquettes while strangers strike up conversations over the pronoun pins at the bar. Speaking of, it is hard not to miss the green velvet curtain that hangs above the bar. While it serves mainly to absorb sound, it also doubles as a welcome to the show. Just beyond it, you can find the backstage area, which is the kitchen, where aproned staff plate marinated tofu and carefully select greens sourced from around the area.
The food: There are two types of tasting options available here: omnivore ($160) or vegan ($135). And as someone who does eat meat on the reg, I am happy to report that Justice's vegan menu truly gives, well, justice to the genre. In fact, as my friend and I ate in tandem, her plates vegan, mine with meat, Justice's vegetable preparations often edged out as my top pick of the two. One such dish was the Tempeh. In lieu of duck, the tempeh's charred exterior gave way to a soft, caramel-like center, while the potato leaf foam added even more sweetness. In fact, even if you happen to order the omnivore menu, you will spend more time grazing on something green, as only two out of the seven courses had meat. But with crispy fried and incredibly jammy strips of eggplant paired with a zippy Meyer lemon reduction and stone-ground grits (also served at brunch!) topped with mushrooms grown from the restaurant's own compost, you won't be missing it. Oh, and the creamy, coconut-based gelato with chocolate ganache that serves as the finale may just change your tune when it comes to vegan desserts as a whole.
The drinks: The space is tiny, so there isn't a ton of room for a full bar here. Instead, Lindsley has curated a selection of wines for pairing ($75), available by the glass or bottle. There's also a dedicated section to queer winemakers from the country, plus a robust non-alcoholic list that ranges from kombucha to a sparkling raspberry and chamomile from alternative drink company, NON.
Time Out tip: Following the thread of community forward, Sundays bring a sliding scale brunch, that's included vegan potato pavés, cinnamon buns and those mushroom grits. The prices listed next to the brunch items are suggested (minus the drinks), so come as you are and pay what you can.